Fish for Lunch

Sundays in Zagreb are a different sort of day, for most people it is their day, a true day of rest. Businesses and shops, with few exceptions are closed. I visited two markets that are open and seemed to be doing booming business, at least in terms of the numbers of people there: the antique/flea market on Britanski Trg, and the food/flower/fish market at Dolac (the “main” outdoor market).

These two places aren’t open later than 1:00 or 1:30 in the afternoon on Sundays, so around 11:00am I ventured out with my daypack, camcorder, shopping bag, and comfortable shoes. I walked past the main square, which seemed to be hosting a race of some sort, with runners accorded their own lane past the goings on at Trg Bana Jelačiċa. I arrived at the Britanski Trg around 11:30 and proceeded to shoot footage of the tables. I’m not in the market for more stuff, especially after hauling the luggage I packed one-quarter of the way around the world. Still, had something caught my eye in a strong way, I might have succumbed. Luckily, the camcorder provided a handy excuse only to be looking.

One can find books, jewelry, wall sconces and door hardware, lace, old military bayonets, helmets and medals, toys, furniture, and almost anything else that accounts for the varying levels of “charm” and “clutter” in almost every household—on either side of the Atlantic. The sellers are almost as interesting as their wares, if not more so. Several tourists and locals peruse the tables, while several dozen more look on from the adjacent cafés. Finally, a little mitteleuropäischer combo provided the soundtrack.

I walked the four blocks east in time for the noon cannon firing, and I caught a glimpse of the funicular car that is drawn up the side of the hill separating the lower town from the older upper town. It’s kind of a one-stop PRT, as my WVU friends can relate.

Once past the main square again, I climbed the single range of steps to the Dolac. I have been to two other street markets already, the Branimirova and the Kvaterniča (they are equidistant from my home apartment . . . maybe five blocks either direction). The Dolac seemed in line with my experiences at the other places, so there was a bit of an anticlimax, since the items for sale repeated what I saw at the other markets for the most part. Or to put it more positively, I needn’t venture all the way to Dolac when the Kvaterniča is a short walk from my home base.

I bought two medium sized apples ($0.20) and a very fresh fish filet ($3.00). I figured I could cook it for lunch, which meant that I needed to get it home quickly and so I decided to tram it back to my place. While riding, I felt familiar enough with the route that I could contemplate the cooking of the fish: olive oil, fresh tomato, basil (from my little plant on the window sill), and some Cajun spices.

Home now and that’s my Sunday excursion culminating in a yummy lunch!